The State Railway of Thailand (SRT) mostly operates third-class diesel rail-cars on suburban and local city routes. Outside peak commuter hours these are rarely crowded and provide a cheap and cheerful mode of transportation.
On intercity services from Bangkok to Chiang Mai, Udon Thani, Ubon Ratchatani and Hat Yai and the Malaysian border, the SRT offers passengers sleeper services which really do evoke the golden age of travel. Although there are one or two first-class carriages on a few of the trains, the majority are second-class.
Second-class carriages are set up in the style of an open-plan dormitory with an aisle running down the middle. There are upper and lower births (lower is more expensive) which have comfortable mattresses and curtains for privacy. Stewards make up the berths every evening with clean bedding.
Passengers boarding sleeper trains in the afternoon will find their berths are still configured to sit on. As soon as darkness falls, the steward will ask whether you want your bed made up.
There are buffet cars on sleeper trains which serve basic Thai fare and breakfast. Vendors selling snacks, sticky rice and cold drinks roam the fan-cooled carriages, but not always the air-conditioned ones.
Taking a second class sleeper train in Thailand
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Although it is quicker and generally more convenient when flying, travelling by train is a more relaxing experience. When holidaying in Thailand, taking the train is almost cathartic and provides a true Thai experience.